Wow… sitting down to write this Amalfi Coast guide post is feeling very unfamiliar. I’ve even had to look back at previous posts to remind myself how I lay everything out. If you follow me along on Instagram you’ll know I’ve been pretty flat out lately with some really exciting projects (ahem…my personal branding e-course). Which has meant I’ve had to take a step back from my blog posts and YouTube videos. But now things are settling down again I’m thrilled to finally share my photos and tips from my 30th birthday trip to the Amalfi Coast.
When I was planning our trip to Amalfi Coast I was a bit anxious about exactly where to stay and how to get around because I’ve heard some horror stories. It can be really tricky (and expensive) to go from town to town along the coastline because the roads are narrow and the traffic is heavy (in summer at least). So if you’re feeling the same right about now, I want to tell you that our trip was actually easy breezy and I’m going to tell you how yours can be too with my Amalfi Coast Guide…
HOW LONG & WHEN TO VISIT
Our trip was six full days with flights on either side. We found this a really lovely, relaxing amount of time to see and do everything we wanted to and have a couple of lazy days just sitting at the beach. However if you have less time I would say you’d want at least three full days to explore and experience the magic of the Amalfi Coast.
Our trip was in the first week of June and we didn’t find the crowds too crazy – we also had perfect weather. I would avoid late June – August because the heat and crowds would ruin it. But I think early September would be similar to early June.
HOW TO GET AROUND
We tried it all… taxi, private transfer, bus, ferry and scooter. Taxis and private transfers are really expensive so aren’t going to be a great option to get around the whole time. We found it worth the money to have a transfer from the airport to our hotel ($100). We also had dinner booked one night in Positano and the buses don’t run past 10pm so our B&B found a local driver to pick us up (Positano to Amalfi $40).
We used the SITA bus to get to some of main towns, which works fine (and is cheap) as long as you aren’t on a strict time schedule (you can find the bus timetables here). The buses rarely show up on time and we were often waiting at least 30mins. One morning we actually waited 2 hours before we realised that buses weren’t stopping at our stop. We walked back one stop and wallah, it worked!
The ferry is the most reliable way to get between the main towns with public transport (around $8 and always on time – you can find the ferry timetables here).
Probably the best combination of convenient and affordable was hiring a scooter. You can rent a scooter for three days for around $150 and for six days for around $200. Jason is a confident driver and we had absolutely no hassles on the roads. Being on a scooter you can zip past all the cars waiting in traffic. But if you get nervous around heights (the roads are all along cliff edges, with safe barriers) or aren’t a confident driver I’d recommend sticking to other modes of transport. We were lucky that our B&B had a scooter they rent out so it was really easy for us to organise to have it for one day.
WHERE TO STAY
This one depends a lot on your budget. Positano is one of the most sought after towns to stay in and comes with a high price tag. But if you plan on spending a lot of time in one place it would probably be worth staying there to save yourself the hassle of transport. Another handy thing about staying in one of the main towns like Positano or Amalfi is that you have easy access to the ferry which is the best public transport option.
We decided to save on our accommodation and chose a cute little B&B called Locanda Cost D’Amalfi along the coast, about 5 mins drive out of Amalfi. It was great value, close to a bus stop, we were able to rent a scooter from them and the staff were really helpful. It was nothing fancy, but we didn’t spend much time there so it didn’t really matter.
The Prettiest Places to Visit on the Amalfi Coast
1. The Path of the Gods
Now, I live in Switzerland so what I’m about to say you can take very seriously… The Path of the Gods is one of the prettiest hikes I’ve ever done. It’s a historic, clifftop trail that follows the Amalfi coastline for 7km (which takes around 3 hours). I was in a constant state of joy the whole time, either admiring the pretty wild flowers, the stone ruins or the endless ocean views. We even came across a heard of goats!
It gets pretty warm in the middle of the day out in the sun, so we started the hike nice and early at around 9am. The Path of The Gods is a point to point trail. So you can start at either the town of Bomerano or Nocelle. Most people recommend hiking from Bomerano to Nocelle for because it’s slightly downhill, and you get better views as you’re walking perpendicular to the peninsula the whole time. You can catch a bus to Bomerano and then a bus from Nocelle into Positano or back to where you came from.
The hike is rated as easy, but I would recommend closed in shoes and sporty clothes because there are some areas where you need to climb or walk across rocks. We were the only people wearing open shoes and got quite a few funny looks!
Near the end of the hike I highly recommend following the signs to Lemon Point for a refreshing granite!
Firstly, yes Positano is as pretty as the pictures and secondly it’s the most expensive town to hang out in along the coast. But it’s totally worth it. We visited twice, once after we hiked the Path of the Gods and once for my birthday dinner. I would recommend at least spending the afternoon at the beach and getting dinner in Positano, if not a whole day. There is a free section of the beach or you can rent an umbrella for around $25. Watching the dusk skyline and seeing the town on the hill light up as night time approached was one of the prettiest scenes I’ve seen.
You can get to Positano by bus or by ferry. Keep in mind neither of them run very late into the night.
3. Amalfi & Atrani
Amalfi and Atrani are two very cute little spots to spend the day. We loved exploring the Amalfi town (it’s quite small so only takes around 45 mins to wander around) before lunch. Then we filled up on pizza and the most delicious lemon and orange sorbet from A’Sciulia. After lunch head around the corner (a fifteen minute walk) to the cute little Atrani beach. We thought it was much nicer (and cheaper) than the Amalfi beach. Umbrellas at Atrani are $10 for the day and if you fancy pizza at the beach (who doesn’t right?), the pizza shop on the right hand side (when you’re facing the ocean) is crazy cheap. We had a pizza, fries and two drinks for $10.
I should also point out that we did Amalfi and Atrani on two seperate days, so no we didn’t eat two pizza lunches in one day! But in hindsight this would make a really nice day if you combine the two.
You can get to Amalfi by bus or by ferry. Keep in mind neither of them run very late into the night. Atrani is a fifteen minute walk from Amalfi.
4. Praiano & Fiordo di Furore
In between the famous towns of Amalfi and Positano there are sweet little villages dotted all along the coast line. These ones aren’t so easy to get to with public transport so we hired a scooter for the day. Two spots we loved were Praiano and Fiordo di Furore. We also stopped at the Emerald Grotto which was really cute, but if you are short on time I’d give it a miss.
Praiano is perfect for lunch and a morning or afternoon swim, with dramatic cliffs and cute fishing boats. There is plenty of parking. Fiordo di Furore actually seemed to be quite run down. It’s a little inlet with a cute beach and picturesque bridge view, but the path down to the beach had been cemented closed. It’s also a very awkward spot to park and we left the scooter in a little spot on the side of the road. We basically just walked to the view point got a photo and walked back to the scooter. It’s really pretty but might not be worth it for everyone. Finally the Emerald Grotto is a little ocean cave where you can go on a short row boat ride. The emerald water section was quite small and not as amazing as I’d expected, but it was only $5 and something different!
All of these little spots are more difficult to get to with public transport so a scooter was ideal.
I absolutely adored Ravello. It’s a bit different to the other towns because it’s not right on the coast line but higher up. You can get the bus to Ravello but we chose to go there the day we had the scooter. I would recommend arriving at 4 or 5pm, getting an afternoon ice-cream and wandering the cute laneways of this sweet village.
Make your way through the village to the iconic Villa Cimbrone (there are signs everywhere guiding you to it). There’s a small entry fee (around $7) into the villa gardens and I thought it was definitely worth it. It was like stepping into a fairytale walking through these gardens and onto the cliffside balcony, which has the most incredible ocean views.
Oh and as you are walking through Ravello keep an eye out for a dinner spot. We chose Villa Maria – they use fresh produce from their gardens and have a beautiful view from their balcony. If you like truffles definitely order the truffle pasta!
You can get to Ravello by bus, but keep in mind buses don’t run very late into the night. We found it really easy to get there and park with the scooter.
6. A Little Local Beach
Finally, and if you have the time, I would recommend finding a little local beach to spend the day or an afternoon relaxing. We loved being surrounded by locals and just basking in all the Italian vibes. The beach we picked was a short walk from our B&B (keep in mind any beach will require you to walk lots of steps to get to it). It was so relaxing that we ended up having pizza on the beach for lunch and seafood at the small beach restaurant for dinner before wandering home.
LIKE MY OUTFITS?
These outfits are from my Summer Capsule Wardrobe, you can also shop these items and support Jayde Archives at the same time by using some of the affiliate links below or find my complete Amalfi Coast packing list here:
- Bird & Kite Cotton Cami (old, similar here ECO)
- Everlane Air Oversized Crew Tee ECO
- Free People Blouse (old, similar here ECO)
- Innika Choo Daisy Dungarees ECO
- Auguste the Label Viola Vacation Maxi Dress ECO (old, similar here)
- Son de Flor Smock Midi Dress ECO (or similar here ECO)
- Rowie Jessie Mini Dress ECO
- Selected Femme Cardigan ECO
- Everlane Cheeky Denim Shorts ECO
- Rhythm Linen Shorts ECO (or similar here)
- Reformation Guava Bikini Top and Papaya Bikini Bottom ECO
- Reformation Tropicana One-Piece ECO
- Head Scarf (old, similar here)
- Lack of Color Spencer Boater Hat
- Max Mara Sunglasses
- Saltwater Classic Sandals ECO
- Teva Trekking Sandals (old, similar here ECO)